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Chef Spotlight: Matthew Kenney
If you think raw foods are for rabbits, a visit to Pure Food and Wine will soon have you wondering why you even need an oven. Chef Matthew Kenney and Co-Chef Sarma Melngailis are delighting New York diners with creative raw, vegan dishes, such as Green Curry Coconut Noodles, Asparagus and Chanterelle Ravioli With Lemon Cream, Flatbread Pizza With Hummus and Marinated Cucumber, and Dark Chocolate Ganache Tart. Try this fresh fare for yourself by visiting Pure Food and Wine at 54 Irving Pl. in Manhattan; 212-477-1010.

Chef Spotlight:
Matthew Kenney

Restaurant: Pure Food and Wine
Chef: Matthew Kenney
Position: Chef
Age: 39

Q. Do you have companion animals?

A. Two cats that Sarma adopted before we met. They are adorable brother and sister cats who look nothing alike and both eat only raw organic foods.

Q. How long have you been a chef?

A. Fourteen years.

Q. What type of cuisine do you focus on?

A. Raw vegan cuisine that is based on local and organic products—our food uses many influences from the Mediterranean, which both Sarma and I love.

Q. Do you have a personal specialty?

A. Whatever new dish we are working on is always my favorite. I rarely go back to dishes that have worked in the past.

Q. What are the most important elements in cooking great vegetarian cuisine?

A. The quality of the ingredients and retaining their integrity.

Q. What is the key to getting meat-eaters to enjoy vegetarian food?

A. We try to offer them a setting that is sexy, warm, and inviting—and to prepare food that is full-flavored and satisfying in a way that they may not have experienced before.

Q. What, in your opinion, is in store for the future of plant-based cuisine?

A. Tremendous growth that will far outpace the already substantial growth. As consumers become aware of the health benefits, as well as the superior taste of a plant-based diet, the rest will take care of itself.

Q. What are your favorite ingredients to work with?

A. Fresh summer fruits (peaches, apricots, nectarines) and heirloom tomatoes.

Q. In your opinion, what vegetarian dish or type of food is most frequently poorly prepared and why?

A. I’m not sure what to call the category, but I feel that nut-, grain-, and seed-based “meatloaf” and dishes of that nature are poorly conceived and executed, mainly because they do not come from the natural position of retaining the food’s inherent character.

Q. Fun question of the day: If you were stranded on a deserted island and could only eat one kind of ethnic food, what would it be?

A. Definitely, sweet ripe mangoes.

Q. Do vegetarian restaurants have any special obstacles that they face versus meat-based restaurants?

A. Specifically, the numerous reports by medical “professionals” who claim that meat-based diets are the only way to achieve superior nutrition.

Q. Can you give us one great cooking tip for aspiring vegetarian chefs?

A. Use coarse sea salt and very high-quality virgin olive and nut oils for seasoning—it makes a tremendous difference.

Q. What are some must-have ingredients for vegetarians and vegans to keep in their kitchen?

A. Fresh spices, virgin olive and nut oils, Celtic sea salt, vanilla beans, and fresh, seasonal fruits and vegetables.

Q. Are there any newer vegetarian products on the market that you are particularly fond of?

A. We’re using a lot of raw cacao beans these days.

Q. Can you give us some tips on how to prepare one of your favorite foods?

A. Perhaps the many ways to use young coconuts: The water is full of nutrients and can be used in smoothies and shakes. The meat makes great noodles and smoothies, thickens an “ice cream” mix, and makes a great coconut pudding when blended with agave nectar, vanilla bean, and a few sprouted cashews, then chilled!

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