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When people ask Tanya Petrovna if she is a “strict vegetarian,”
she replies, “No, I’m a fun vegetarian!” A quick
sampling of the menus at the Native Foods restaurants in California—where
Tanya and her staff dish up fresh vegan fare like Rasta Pasta Primavera,
BBQ Love Burger, and “Save the” Chicken Wings—proves
her point. For info and hours, visit NativeFoods.com. |
Chef Spotlight: Tanya Petrovna
Restaurant: Native Foods
Chef: Tanya Petrovna
Position: Co-Owner/Head Chef
Age: 39
Q. How long have you been a chef?
A. 16 years.
Q. Do you have animal companions?
A. Beautiful ones—Sophie, an Akita/ridgeback; Joey (a girl), a terrier
mix with one ear up and one ear down; Teddy, who looks like a giant wolf
and acts like a cat; and Cassie, who has a hint of coyote, hence the ears.
She’s independent and smart. Lola, my white ring-tailed cat/showgirl,
dances for the dogs after hours. I’m also currently fostering a Shar-Pei-mix
mama, “Dali Mama,” and her babies, Peachie, Troy Boy, and the
giant Daisy.
Q. What type of cuisine do you focus on?
A. Full-flavored vegan with an international flair.
Q. Do you have a personal specialty?
A. The homemade tempeh rocks the house.
Q. What are the most important elements in cooking great vegetarian cuisine?
A. Mixing the flavors and textures with a minimalist approach to ingredients,
combined with enthusiasm and l-o-v-e.
Q. What is the key to getting meat-eaters to enjoy vegetarian food?
A. Flavor, fat, and chew factor. Sometimes, the addition of my story
of driving next to the chicken, pig, or cow truck helps.
Q. What, in your opinion, is in store for the future of plant-based cuisine?
A. I can only say that it will be the next superstar cuisine, for
if it is not, there will be no future.
Q. What are your favorite ingredients to work with?
A. For “meaty” things, homemade tempeh and seitan. For
spices and herbs, I like ginger, cardamom, and fresh cilantro. And any garden
fresh or farmer’s market fun veggies. Create as you see the possibilities
…
Q. In your opinion, what vegetarian dish or type of food is most frequently poorly prepared and why?
A. I think tempeh needs to have a flavor base and a texture; sometimes
it just gets simmered in a sauce, and I think then you miss the tempeh vibe.
Eggplant often gets undercooked, which gives it an astringent flavor and
rubbery texture. It should melt in your mouth … like vegan butter!
Veggies are sometimes cut too large when they are steamed and can be unappetizing.
The style of cutting can enhance pleasure when eating.
In general, the flavor can be unpronounced due to a lack of balance of the
seasonings. A little sauce with flavor can go a long way and create a style.
Q. Fun question of the day: If you were stranded on a deserted island and could only eat one kind of ethnic food, what would it be?
A. I won’t pick just one, but it would be Asian of sorts. Especially
on an island with that climate. Maybe I’d be a tropical fruitarian
depending on what was available. Nothing like a tree-ripened mango, or have
you ever had a mangosteen? Now those are amazing!
Q. Do vegetarian restaurants have any special obstacles that they face versus meat-based restaurants?
A. The trick is making it work while knowing that you don’t
represent the majority of the population … yet.
Q. Can you give us one great cooking tip for aspiring vegetarian chefs?
A. Wok softly and carry big chopsticks.
Q. What are some food ingredients you recommend that vegetarians and
vegans should have in their kitchen for cooking?
A. In The Native Foods Restaurant Cookbook, I really get into this
question and have a good outline, but simply I’d say, first of all,
I think you should have a nice selection of vegetables that you can steam
or blanch. Always have a big combo bowl ready to go in the refrigerator
that you can just heat to order; the same with salad and raw veggies. Have
a couple of good sauces and dressings, then all you have to do is have a
grain to cook (rice, quinoa, etc.) or a good Asian-style noodle and add
a protein (tempeh, beans, tofu, seitan, chopped nuts, or seeds), and you
can have a quick meal without thinking so much. The flavor of your sauce
or dressing can make it the flavor style for the meal, such as Japanese,
Thai, or Indian.
Q. Are there any newer vegetarian products on the market that you are
particularly fond of?
A. White Wave has some flavored tofu cubes that are good. Amy’s has
some vegan Indian choices now that I like. Vegenaise isn’t new, but
a fun must. Organica Foods’ Lemon Shortbread With Tangerine Icing—mmmm.
One of my favorite new products is BioNature’s (organic from Sicily)
Pistachio Cream. It’s phenomenal on vanilla soy ice cream, or just
spoon it! Q. How do you best prepare tofu?
A. Marinate and bake it, or fry cubes of tofu until they are crispy, and
add a great sauce.
Q. What about seitan?
A. Depending on the brand, you may have to rinse some of the salty flavor
off if you plan on adding a sauce so that it doesn’t overpower it.
Seitan is easy because you can sauté or grill it, or just cut it
up and simmer it in a sauce.
Q. And what about tempeh?
A. I like to sauté it first so that it is golden brown, and then,
I build from there. A little salt, garlic, and soy sauce—a simple
sauce. It is also great battered and fried if you have the time and equipment
to fry properly. Try the Moby Dick Sandwich at Native Foods, and find out
why!
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Chef: Scot Jones
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