Want "a clean body, clear skin, and an open mind, along with increases in energy so dramatic as to occasionally make others suspicious (i.e., 'What are you on??')"? It's easy: Just stop cooking! According to Chef Sarma Melngailis, proprietor of Pure Food and Wine restaurant in New York City and coauthor of Raw Food Real World, these are just some of the benefits of an all-raw, vegan diet. Chef Melngailis' mission is to "take 'raw food' out of the underground to take away some of the mystery, confusion, [and] exclusivity in order to make it fun, appealing, and accessible by more than just devoted, hard-core raw foodists." With dishes like Creamy Cauliflower Samosas with Tamarind Sauce, Chili Lime Tortilla Wraps, and Chocolate Molten Lava Cake, she succeeds deliciously.

Chef Spotlight: Sarma Melngailis

Restaurant or Company: Pure Food and Wine (restaurant) and One Lucky Duck (online store and wholesale raw-vegan organic snack and food product brand)

Do you have animal companions? If so, can you describe them?
I have two cats, Dallas and Sydney. They are brother and sister, 10 years old. They are totally beautiful and behave like kittens.

How long have you been a chef?
After college, I worked in finance for five years, then attended culinary school, and then began work in the food and restaurant business eight years ago.

What type of cuisine do you focus on?
Raw, organic, and vegan, using ethnic influences from all over the world.

Have you or has your restaurant received any awards?
Our restaurant has been named among New York's 100 Best Restaurants three years in a row by New York magazine and, four years in a row, has been singled out as an All-Star Restaurant by Forbes magazine—and not just in the vegetarian category, which is what makes these distinctions a particular honor.

Do you have a specialty?
My chefs change the menu at the restaurant frequently and also seasonally. But since the restaurant opened in 2004, our Zucchini and Heirloom Tomato Lasagna with Pine Nut Ricotta, Sun Dried Tomato Sauce, and Basil-Pistachio Pesto has been the most popular dish and will always remain on the menu.

What are the most important elements in cooking great vegetarian cuisine?
Quality ingredients and freshness.

What is the key to getting meat-eaters to enjoy vegetarian food?
To make it taste great and to serve it in a context where they feel comfortable, without any agenda or judgment.

What, in your opinion, does the future of plant-based cuisine hold?
Organic and biodynamic will continue to outpace conventionally grown plant foods in growth, popularity, availability, and price accessibility.

Do you have a favorite cooking method?
We don't really "cook," of course. But I've noticed that I love any vegetable shaved paper-thin and tossed in macadamia oil and coarse salt.

Where did you train to become a chef?
The French Culinary Institute in NYC. I was not vegetarian at the time, but I think this turned out to be the best training. Also, my mother was a professional restaurant chef.

What are your favorite ingredients to work with?
Mushrooms—they carry flavors very well when marinated, and I love all the different flavors and textures.

In your opinion, what vegetarian dish or type of food is most frequently poorly prepared and why?
I don't like anything made from tofu. It's not used in raw food preparation anyway, but I have never liked any tofu dishes or desserts.

If you were stranded on a deserted island and could only eat one kind of ethnic food, what would it be?
Middle Eastern food.

Do vegetarian restaurants face any special obstacles that meat-based restaurants don’t have to face?
I think there are more obstacles the other way around. If served hot, meat has to be cooked to just the right temperature, often according to guest preferences, and the preparation timed according to other dishes ordered by the same table, and all brought to the table immediately. It's tricky. Also, the health department is stricter if you use meat, dairy, and eggs in the house. We don't have to worry about any "cross-contamination" issues.

Can you give us one great cooking tip for aspiring vegetarian chefs?
Focus on freshness overall, use only fresh herbs rather than dried, and grind your own spices.

What are some ingredients that you recommend vegetarians and vegans have in their kitchens to cook with?
Macadamia oil is my favorite ingredient—nut oils in general have so much flavor. Also, really good quality coarse salt. It's not raw when you buy it bottled, but I love pomegranate molasses. We can make it at the restaurant and keep it raw, but it's a labor-intensive process. I keep a bottle of pomegranate molasses at home in my cupboard and use it occasionally.

Are there any newer vegetarian products on the market that you are particularly fond of?
I love the increasing availability of good quality raw chocolate and cocoa butter to use as ingredients.

Have you had any noteworthy comments from or experiences with diners?
Bill Clinton sent me a handwritten letter after having dinner at my restaurant, with compliments and called himself a "lucky duck." That tops them all.

Choose one area to give some specialty tips for: 
Your favorite way to work with a certain fruit or vegetable:
Jicama chopped fine in a food processor is a slightly sweet, crunchy, and really good base for flavors and other ingredients—it's like couscous, but crunchy and juicy.

Shiitake, Avocado, and Pickled Ginger Sushi Rolls
For the Filling:
1 cup thinly sliced shiitake mushroom caps
1/4 cup nama shoyu plus 1/2 cup for dipping
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 large young gingerroots, peeled and sliced very thin on a mandolin
2 Tbsp. sea salt
1 1/2 cups raw apple cider vinegar or rice wine vinegar
3/4 cup agave nectar
1/2 cup beet juice (optional)

• In a small bowl, toss the shiitakes with the 1/4 cup nama shoyu and the olive oil. Allow to marinate for about 1 hour. Drain well and set aside.
• Place the sliced ginger in a bowl and sprinkle generously with the salt. Let stand for about 5 minutes. Rinse well, drain, and squeeze out the water. Place about 2/3 of the ginger in one bowl with 1 cup of the vinegar and 1/2 cup of the agave nectar.
• Julienne the remaining ginger and place in another small bowl with the remaining 1/2 cup vinegar and 1/4 cup agave nectar. Add the beet juice (if using) to the bowl with the julienned ginger. Make sure the ginger is fully immersed in liquid—if not, simply add more vinegar and agave accordingly.
• Cover both bowls and refrigerate for at least 1 day and up to 3 days. Drain well before using.

For the Rice:
6 cups chopped jicama (roughly 1-inch cubes)
1/2 cups pine nuts
1 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. sea salt
1/4 cup brown rice wine vinegar
3 Tbsp. agave nectar

• Place the jicama and pine nuts in a food processor and pulse until chopped to the approximate size of rice grains. Press the jicama between clean kitchen towels or paper towels to remove all the excess moisture.
• In a large bowl, combine the "rice" with the salt, rice vinegar, and agave nectar and mix well. Gently spread the mixture onto dehydrator screens and dehydrate at 115?F for about 2 hours to remove additional moisture. It's a good idea to check the rice occasionally to make sure it is not getting too dry and to toss it around a bit on the tray, as the edges dry faster. If it does get too dry, just add a bit more seasoning liquid, and keep in mind that the yield will be a bit less. The rice will keep for up to 3 days in a covered container in the refrigerator. Makes about 4 1/2 cups.

To Assemble:
6 to 8 sheets untoasted nori
1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, and thinly julienned
2 ripe avocados, peeled, pitted, and sliced
1 small bunch sunflower sprouts or other long-stemmed sprouts
2 green onions, white and 1 inch of green, thinly sliced
1/2 cup wasabi (optional)
2 Tbsp. black sesame seeds for garnish

• Put a sheet of nori on a bamboo mat with the rougher side facing up, placing the shorter side closest to you. Place about 1/2 cup of rice on the nori and spread out evenly across the bottom third of the sheet, leaving 1 inch of space clear on the bottom.
• Lay some of the cucumber, avocados, shiitake filling, sprouts, and the pink julienned ginger across the rice, letting the leafy ends of the sprouts extend beyond the edges of the nori. Sprinkle with some of the green onion. Spread a small amount of the wasabi, if using, anywhere across the exposed nori before rolling.
• Fold the bottom of the bamboo mat up and over the filling and roll the nori tightly. Wet the top edge with a little water to help seal it shut. Hold, then roll in the mat for a few seconds to let set and seal. Gently unwrap the mat and, using a very sharp knife, cut the roll into 6 pieces, wiping the knife clean with a wet towel between cuts. It helps to cut it in half first, and then cut each half into 3 evenly sized pieces.
• Arrange the sushi on a plate and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Garnish with a small pile of the pickled ginger slices and a bit of wasabi.

Makes 6 to 8 rolls

• In a food processor, blend the nuts, lemon juice and zest, yeast, and salt until smooth.
• Transfer the filling to a medium bowl and fold in the onions, tarragon, and parsley, creating a ricotta cheese consistency. Taste and then add more salt or lemon juice, if needed.
• Store covered in the refrigerator if not using right away; it tastes best if you bring it back to room temperature before assembling and serving.

For the Pepper Purée:
3 yellow or orange bell peppers, cored and cleaned
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
1 green onion, white part only
1/2 tsp. salt
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1/2 cup pine nuts (plus 2 Tbsp., if needed), soaked 30 minutes to 1 hour
1 small pinch ground (or fresh) turmeric (optional, for added color)

• In a Vita-Mix or high-speed blender, blend all the ingredients until smooth. If the sauce is too runny, add an additional 1 to 2 tablespoons of soaked pine nuts.
• Place in a squeeze bottle or other covered container and refrigerate if not using right away.

To Assemble:
1 large bunch red beets (2 inches in diameter or more)
2 to 3 Tbsp. macadamia oil, other nut oil, or extra-virgin olive oil
1 to 2 Tbsp. lemon juice
Coarse sea salt, to taste
1 handful chopped pistachios, preferably Sicilian
1 tsp. pistachio oil, other nut oil, or extra-virgin olive oil
1 small handful fresh tarragon leaves, torn or left whole
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Microgreens for garnish (optional)

• Using a mandolin, slice the beets very thin (about 1/16 inch or less). Make stacks and cut into 2-inch squares, creating at least 50 slices.
• In a medium bowl, add the beet slices, macadamia oil, lemon juice, and a generous pinch of sea salt. Toss to coat. (There should be enough oil and lemon juice to coat all of the slices, but not so much that they are dripping in liquid.)
• Arrange half the beet slices flat on serving plates. Place a generous dollop of the filling on each slice. Sauce the plates with the pepper purée, using either a squeeze bottle or just spooning it over the beets and filling (this way some of the sauce will be inside each ravioli). Top each ravioli with a beet slice, pressing down gently.
• In a small bowl, toss the chopped pistachios and top with the oil and a pinch of sea salt. Sprinkle each ravioli with the pistachios and top with the tarragon. Grind a bit of black pepper over the plates and garnish with microgreens, if desired.

Serves 6 as an appetizer or 4 as a main course.

• In a blender, add 3 cups each of the cucumber and pineapple, the pineapple juice, jalapeño, green onion, lime juice, and salt. Blend until smooth.
• Add the remaining 1 cup pineapple and 1 cup cucumber, the handful of cilantro, and 1 1/2 tablespoons of the oil. Pulse the blender quickly a few times—the gazpacho should remain chunky.
• Before serving, add the macadamia nuts to the gazpacho and stir to distribute evenly. Divide among serving bowls and drizzle with the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons oil. Garnish with cilantro.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

• Place the nuts and the processor bowl in the freezer to chill for a few minutes. Once chilled, place all the ingredients except the oil in the processor bowl and pulse until well combined but still a bit chunky. Be careful not to overprocess or the nuts will become oily.
• Lightly oil four 4-inch tart shells with removable bottoms with the macadamia oil. If using tart shells without removable bottoms, line the pans with overhanging plastic wrap and skip oiling them.
• Divide the dough into four parts and press into the tart shells. When the shells are filled, wrap in plastic and place in the freezer to chill until firm.

For the Lime Mousse:
5 ripe avocados, peeled and pitted
1/2 cup lime juice
1/4 cup packed lime zest (from 6 to 8 limes)
2 Tbsp. coconut butter
Seeds from 1/2 vanilla bean, or 2 tsp. vanilla extract
1/2 tsp. sea salt
10 packets stevia (or to taste)

• In the bowl of a good processor, process all the mousse ingredients except the stevia until smooth. Add stevia to taste and process.
• Use the overhanging edges of the plastic wrap to carefully pull the tarts from the shells (or push from the bottom if using shells with removable bottoms). Fill the tart shells with the mousse and cover with wax paper, parchment, or plastic wrap. Place in the refrigerator or freezer to chill. Allow frozen tarts to thaw for at least 15 minutes before serving.

Makes 4 servings

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